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5 villages that maps do not mention

Everyone knows Noyers and Chablis. But between the hills of the Tonnerrois, there are villages the guidebooks forget, and we love. Our five favourites.
Interior courtyard with outdoor tables, landscaped with greenery.

5 Villages the Maps Don’t Mention

Everyone knows Noyers-sur-Serein, and rightly so. The medieval town deserves its place among France’s Most Beautiful Villages. Chablis needs no introduction. Neither does Fontenay Abbey.

But between these well-known destinations, there’s another country. Quieter. Slower. A country of hamlets with no tourist signs, of bell towers glimpsed from across the fields, of squares where the fountain still runs and morning coffee is taken standing at the counter.

Here are five of our favourite villages, the ones we recommend to our guests when they ask, “Apart from Noyers, where should we go?”

  1. Montréal

Twenty minutes from La Ferme, perched on a hill overlooking the Serein valley, Montréal is one of those villages you discover by accident, and never forget. A 12th century collegiate church with remarkably carved choir stalls, lanes climbing between walls of golden stone, and a view of the countryside that makes you want to sit down and never move again. The kind of place where you’ll meet more cats than tourists, even in July.

  1. Ancy-le-Franc

It’s known for its Renaissance château, and deservedly so. It’s one of the purest in France, a study in perfect symmetry set in a landscaped park. But the village itself is worth the visit too. The Canal de Bourgogne runs through it, barges pass slowly, and the towpath along the banks is a quiet joy for walkers and cyclists alike. After the château, follow the canal to the next lock. You’ll understand why people come back.

3. Épineuil

Just outside Tonnerre, this small wine village produces a delicate rosé that few people know about beyond the region. The vines climb the hillsides, the cellars are discreet, and the winemakers welcome you without an appointment, glass in hand, with the story of the terroir thrown in for free.

Go in the late afternoon, when the light turns the rows of vines to gold. Leave with a bottle, or three.

  1. Cry-sur-Armançon

A hamlet on the banks of the Armançon, with an old bridge, a washhouse, and nothing else but absolute peace. No shops, no restaurant, no museum. Just a postcard landscape and the sound of water. The kind of place where you stop for five minutes and stay for an hour, sitting on the bridge wall watching the current pass.

  1. Chassignelles

On the Canal de Bourgogne path, between two locks, this tiny village has something timeless about it. A Romanesque church, a field of poppies in June, a towpath stretching in both directions. This is Burgundy unfiltered, not the Burgundy of the brochures, but the one you earn on foot or by bike, and that rewards the curious.

What connects these five places is that they don’t sell themselves. They do nothing to attract attention. They’re simply there, as they have been for centuries, waiting to be found. And that’s exactly the kind of discovery you make when you choose to stay off the beaten track, in a place like ours, where the road to nowhere in particular often leads somewhere extraordinary.

If you’re looking for more, a hidden washhouse, a viewpoint over three valleys, a potter still working the old way, ask us. We explore this country every week. And we never tire of it.

La Ferme du Cerf Bleu is located in Étivey, in the heart of the Tonnerrois, 10 minutes from Noyers-sur-Serein and 25 minutes from Chablis. Our gîtes and guest rooms are the perfect base for exploring this secret Burgundy.